Introduction - learning to weave a doubleweave design
I have had a focus on doubleweaving this year. When I started to weave I wanted to weave the window pane design. This blog discusses my journey starting to weave the doubleweave design.
What is a doubleweave textile structure?
Doubleweave cloth is a textile which has two sides. Each side is reversible to the other side. When you weave different shafts on the loom are used for each layer. It is a slower than normal process because in effect you are weaving two cloths. As a result you need to have double the number of warp threads set up on the loom.
Starting to weave a doubleweave design
My first attempt was disastrous and although the final table runner was OK I wasn’t keen to have another go any time soon. Purchasing Jennifer Moores ’Doubleweave’ book supported my learning significantly. It is a fabulous book with clear instructions.
Setting up the Loom
I set up the loom using 4 ply superwash merino. 312 ends with the aim of having 9 panes across the weave woven at 7.5epi in each layer (15epi doubled). I have an 8 shaft loom so 4 shafts were used for the top layer and 4 shafts for the bottom layer of the weave.
Sample weave
The first 45cm was woven, removed from the loom and washed. I often do this when weaving because it allows me to wash and finish a sample of the weave to then review and make any adjustments for the remainder of the weaving. Whilst the sample fabric was good the fact it was superwash wool meant that there was little shrinkage. I decided to re-thread the reed to increase the sett slightly to 8.7epi which I was happy with.
What was the fabric used for?
The sample was made into a cushion and the first 2m of the higher sett woven into a shawl. As a result of the nature of the weaving the fabric is quite thick and the shawl was beautifully warm. As a scarf or shawl the final fabric at this sett with 4 ply yarn didn't have much drape so this is something to be considered. If a scarf or shawl with more drape is desired then my plan would be to weave with finer perhaps 2 ply yarn.
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